Vari — A Spiritual Journey to Pandharpur
Originally published in Envision — the internal magazine of Decos India, June 2011. Reproduced here as a personal archive. View original ↗
By Subodh Patil
Being in Pune, we are all at least aware of words like Vari, Palakhi, Pandharpur, Vithoba. But what do they really mean?
What is Vari?
Every year in the month of Ashadh (the Marathi-Hindu calendar month falling roughly in June–July) and Kartik (falling in November), many people walk to Pandharpur — making the pilgrimage — with Palakhis (palanquins) of saints from their respective Samadhis (places of spiritual departure). This is called Vari, though it encompasses many different spiritual and social dimensions. The Vari, or periodic pilgrimage to Pandharpur, is a living tradition of Maharashtra.
The people who participate in Vari are called Varkaris — pilgrims vowed to visiting the sacred city of Pandharpur. For them, Pandurang is the cosmic spirit, present simultaneously within all space and time, and yet also beyond.
A Tradition Six Centuries Old
The Varkari tradition has shaped the life of common people in Maharashtra for six hundred years — from the 13th century to the 18th century. Varkaris regard God as the Ultimate Truth, accepting ultimate equality among all people regardless of caste or class.
The Vari was established in its current form by Narayan Maharaj, son of Saint Tukaram, in 1685. But it is believed that the first pilgrimage was undertaken by the parents of Saint Dnyaneshwar in the 13th century — and that Saint Dnyaneshwar himself popularised it during his lifetime.
Today, the two most famous Varis are those of Sant Tukaram Maharaj (starting from Dehu, near Pune) and Sant Dnyaneshwar Maharaj (starting from Alandi, also near Pune). Both are in Pune district, adjacent to the city.
The 2011 Vari
This year, the Sant Tukaram and Sant Dnyaneshwar Palakhis began their journey to Pandharpur on 22nd and 23rd June respectively, with more than 2 lakh people participating. On Ashadhi Ekadashi (11th July 2011) around 12 to 15 lakh people were expected to gather at Pandharpur from across Maharashtra. The Varkaris walk hundreds of miles over more than 3 weeks to meet Lord Vithhala.
Who is Vithoba?
Vithoba — also known as Vitthala and Panduranga — is a Hindu god worshipped predominantly in Maharashtra, Karnataka, Goa, and Andhra Pradesh. He is generally considered a manifestation of Vishnu or his avatar Krishna.
Sant Tukaram and the Abhang
Sant Tukaram (1608–1650) was a prominent Varkari saint and spiritual poet of the 17th century. He composed around 4,500 Abhangas — a form of devotional poetry sung in praise of Vitthala. The word Abhang is Marathi: bhang means “to break”; a-bhang is its opposite — that which does not break. It is a way of praising the Lord.
Tukaram’s Abhangas are so beautiful that their translation by Dilip Chitre have been included in The Longman Anthology of World Literature, Volume C — The Early Modern Period (Pearson Longman, New York).
The Beauty of Vari
The beauty of Vari is that all kinds of people walk together — a perfect amalgamation of all castes, creeds, rich, poor, young, old, and children. This is expressed beautifully in one of Sant Tukaram’s most celebrated Abhangas:
*खेळ मांडीयेला वाळवंटी घाई, नाचती वैष्णव भाई रे * *क्रोध अभिमान गेला पावटणी, एक एका लागतील पायी रे * *गोपीचंदन उटी तुळशीच्या माळा, हार मिरविती गळा * *टाळ मृदुंग घाई पुष्पवर्षाव, अनुपम्य सुखसोहळा रे * *वर्ण अभिमान विसरली याती, एक एका लोटांगणी जाती * *निर्मळ चित्ते झाली नवनीते, पाषाणा पाझर सुटती रे * *होतो जयजयकार गर्जत अंबर, मातले हे वैष्णव वीर रे * *तुका म्हणे सोपी केली पायवाट, उतरावया भवसागर *
In short: all kinds of people make this pilgrimage without regard for caste, age, or religion. They dance with joy, chanting the holy name of the Lord. This is the way Sant Tukaram showed us how to reach God.
Vari is not something that can be fully explained — it needs to be experienced.
References: Wikipedia, tukaram.com, Dilip Chitre’s articles